Widescreen Gaming Forum

I was wondering if any of you could provide some insight as to why my sandybridge built shut down suddenly and wont boot.

I was about to hit shutdown after updating to the latest beta nvidia drivers in an attempt to get something to work, before I can click the button the power suddenly cuts out. Now the machine wont boot up anymore. The powersupply seems good as I can unplug the 8 pin cpu connector and the rest of the rig starts up and the cpu error LED lights up, when it is all plugged in there is a tiny flash of the cpu fan LEDs then it turns off and I have to unplug in order to get it to start again.

I tried overclocking but havent in a few months and I have been running at stock clocks.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Packerfan

Only thing I can suggest is make sure the heat sink is seated correctly, if its not, that could cause your issue. Otherwise, if your system doesn't even give a flicker of life when your press the power button with the 8 pin connector in, its possible one of the motherboard caps has fried.

What board do you have? ASUS boards have a "MemOK" switch that sometimes needs pressing to (supposedly) resolve a memory timing issue that prevents booting. I don't know if other boards have anything similar.

I've had something similar happen once after a soft reset and nothing would work until I hit that switch. As far as I can tell the memory timing issues haven't changed from the settings prior to the glitch (and I'm anal enough to have taken photos of the BIOS/UEFI screens) but it's been happy ever since.

To add a little more

When I press the mem ok button it does nothing

If I unplug it for a bit and plug it back in and press the power button the cpu fan twitches for a split second then nothing

If I unplug the 8 pin cpu connector it seemingly comes to life minus the fan not being connected so I am not sure if that is a motherboard or cpu issue.

The case hasn't been moved in over a month and has had no issues so I don't think it is a heatsink seating issue.

I may try to bring the case over to my sisters place and try her 8 pin cpu connector from her power supply and see how it behaves.

ASUS is going to RMA the motherboard and because of its price they will cross ship it so I dont have to figure out how to safely store a CPU in a dorm room without its original packaging.

Update:

New motherboard came in, rev 3.1 instead (different usb 3.0 controller I believe)

Popped it in and got it to power up with a lovely CPU error light.

So now to see about RMAing my processor.

I will be shocked if the CPU is faulty. I guess it is something with the PSU.

Wouldn't be unheard of for it to be the CPU. The Sandy Bridge chips have so much on them beyond what it traditionally understood to be a 'CPU' that any one bit of it going wobbly will take the CPU as a whole down with it. It's unusual, but not impossible.

I'd get the PSU checked out (PSU testers aren't expensive) to give you piece of mind on that front, but usually when a PSU blows, you don't get anything, rather than CPU failed or whatever.

Hi Packerfan, sorry to hear about your PC troubles.

To echo what the guys above said, I would certainly get your PSU tested before plugging in any new CPU.

Ive had PSUs in the past which appear fine, even boot a PC but fall over as soon as the load increases.
Years ago I had one go open circuit and fry the entire board so Ive never bought cheap ones since and always try to get a decent known brand with good inbuilt protection.

Well worth getting yours tested for peace of mind.

Should I still consider getting it tested if it is a new Corsair HX850?, I thought it was a pretty good quality PSU. The cpu won't get sent out til friday from me and has a few day turn around so I have some time to order a psu tester.

Second, any recommendations on a psu tester? what about just testing with a multimeter? Should I spend a little more to get 8 pin mobo and pci-express connectors (frozen cpu has one for 23 bucks)

Should I spend a little more to get 8 pin mobo and pci-express connectors (frozen cpu has one for 23 bucks)

Yes.

Having a PSU tester is never a bad idea, and one that you just plug the cables in to makes life so much simpler than having to individually test lots of pins.

Got the replacement 2500K and it works fine, also my ram was recognized as 1333 and 1.5 volt so it is proper spec

Yay. Now get overclocking!

That reply was brief because I typed it on my phone while eating. Elaborating on the RAM bit, my ram was sold as DDR3 1600 and 1.65 v and intel claims that that would cause it not to boot with my processor but my motherboard recognizes it as 1333 and 1.5v so I am just suspecting that kingston advertises it the other way because 1600 is more attractive looking.

Additionally, used ceramique 2 this time and this chip seems to be running much cooler, I used to hit 40s a lot at idle now I am hovering around 30s, costa rica is the new chip vs malaysia if anyone knows if that makes a difference.

Glad it works now, but still shocked it was the CPU!

In other news my flash drive decided to eat it today... thankfully it is a corsair and they have basically a no questions asked replacement policy. Unfortunately I still get shafted by return shipping.